The drive down was uneventful - which is the way I like it. Was up at dawn (you can see "La Bestia" in the sunrise) doing Judging meetings, getting ready and watching the first sets of the day come in.

We started at 8:30am promptly and were continuous all day, three heats (1hr) on, one (20 mins) heat off. Not much to say was good to get back into doing some, see the groms that I had once judged move up into new categories and win. Standard as ever for all concerned was high, especially as it built and built as the day went on.

In my heats off I managed to get a few pics here and there, Rob from Surfplugs ( bringing in the punters, and some shots sneaking a peak of the shots on the pc of the main photog ( - you can see from the screen grabs that as the day went on, it was well overhead with roaring cross-offshores - but great rides were out there to be had.

We managed to finish before dusk, putting banners up in a packed Fistral cafe seemed to take ages, but eventually prizes were given. Too many winners to mention, but here are some Women - 1st Sarah Beardmore, 2nd Hannah Harding, 3rd Anne Marie Le Tallec, 4th Joanne Dennison. 

U18 Boyz - 1st Harry Timson, 2nd Luke Dillon, 3rd Ben Bennet, 4th Tom Good.

U18 Girlz - 1st Tassy Swallow, 2nd Lucy Campbell, 3rd Laura Crane, 4th Gabi Rowe.

Then the Welsh invaded with a bang in the form of Mark Vaughan & Greg Owen, 1st & 4th respectively Chris Harris managed to snag 3rd even with a snapped board and Lee Bartlett came 2nd.

The Men's Open 1st Stuart Campbell, 2nd Jayce Robinson, 3rd Gordon Fontaine, 4th Oli Adams. Full results and more pics can be found here: 

The meeting after was kicked off by a grom chat from the passionate Joey Boran continuing to encourage the new generation. The meeting itself was action packed and by 9pm+ I felt I had given enough back and food was the order of the day.

Sunday AM caught up with some old faces while watching the Butler boyz amongst others catching some South Fistral bombs. Then headed to a spot I know, 19 people out with only a few waves coming in - wasn't feeling it so headed further north. But I'd completely forgotten about the clocks going back and my timings were out - so didn't get to surf :0(

Monday morning was errand filled, but went back to Sunday's spot at 3pm to see 24 people now in on a Monday! Even less coming in, so again I headed off. Offered the missus a lovely stroll along the coastal path (the reality was somewhat different), jogging down a hill, slipping in the mud, clambering down cliffs and then racing across rocks. I lost her at the top of the cliff I think!

I found myself with just over an hour and a half of daylight left, knee deep in rocks, watching 8ft plus waves coming in, with the white water crashing up over me.

Now I've only surfed the break a few times and last time nearly drowned, so I waited for a lull and paddled like a biatch. Made it outback just, paddled for a couple, then got a smaller one, still head high with a racing shoulder riding it 80 metres or so = stoked.

The break is a bit suicidal, as you're surfing right in front of rocks, so it's just a game of chicken really!

Why had I left my Gath in the van?!

Being all alone (which is great) in the dying light also added to the gnarl-factor. I was eventually joined by a lone seal, which having seen friends attacked by them (although more in the pacific ocean) added to the fun. But I continued to get some nice rides in the clean and perfect conditions.

My last was a solid 8ft beast with a churning pit, which I dragged myself under the curl, getting spewed out and then racing the barrelling end section down the line. The half hour walk back to the van in virtual pitch blackness was full on - but I arrived still stoked from my last wave & scoring more waves than if I had joined the pack of 24 at the other spot.

Monday night poured with rain - note to self - must fix the minor (but annoying) leak in the boiler chimney!

Tuesday had wind on things more, so what with more meetings and stuff decided to just head home.

Hope you scored some fun waves.


29.10.11 British Nationals & Chickens.....