Was my birthday earlier in the week, and looking at the swell that was on it's way in, it was all just too tempting.....

So I put a call into the No.1 Ninja, who happily agreed, we packed and left in "La Bestia"(http://ow.ly/7Ex1I) heading down to deepest darkest Wreckers Land.

We woke to see Magpies coming in at 10ft, with perhaps even bigger sets. It was just too big for that spot, the reef couldn't handle it and the paddle out would have been a nightmare.

Two guys did go in, but it didn't look fun, and those closeouts with all the rocks didn't look inviting! We had a quick breakie and went exploring.....

The main spot had too much tide on it, but we eventually rocked up at Mermaids - which I have checked loads, but never surfed. There were four guys out on the right, and only one on the left. It was still coming in at the 8-10ft range, but the paddle out was a lot easier due to the high tide and the channel.

So we suited and booted and ran down, could see all the guys getting out = ideal! the Channel paddle out was less easy than it looked with a huge 6-8ft closeout end section we had to get through. But once outback, it was sunny, clean and just the two of us out there. :0)

I got a couple of nice cranking lefts on my trusty 6'9" yellow http://www.fluidjuice.co.uk/ - the rides were 80-100metres long, all well overhead and it was great - I saw Hajime bag a few too. 

As the tide dropped a bit the rocks started to appear a bit, but it didn't feel gnarly.

Later on in the session Hajime was inside of me, as I paddled for a big one. As I got to my feet I was ejected out across the face, of a well overhead one - all happening in front of Hajime! I surfaced to see him stroking away nearby, grabbed my board and made it back out there. Somehow in all this as the Ninja paddled back out he took the same set I was duck-diving, and the white water snapped his Fire Wire in two.

I stayed out for another half hour and then came out getting two bombs in a row, all the way in = stoked. :0)

I found the Ninja performing some kind of Shinto ceremony on the beach with his Fire Wire in pieces - I explained the advantages of a proper British board, took some pics and ate a quick lunch. 

We raced into town to get Hajime some swim fins from http://www.jollyrogersurfboards.com/ - then raced to the main town spot, it was packed. Twenty odd out, but we were keen, suited and booted and got in amongst in.

Having not gone out at board snapping Mermaids with my Gath on, I was determined to protect my head, having nearly died at this spot at least twice!

Hajime, took his camera out with pro-water housing and armed with his new swim fins. He was filming and getting mad full on shots of 8-10ft blasting lefts, late take-offs drop-ins you name it. He soon became Mr Popular as everyone spotted the Ninja halfway up the wave face or in the pit point his camera at them!
Took me a while to get anything, the crowd was keen and thick, avoided a couple of the 10ft plus sets, duck-dived others and it was looking like it might be a waveless session. Then all of a sudden I spotted a lone one that had gone through unridden, as the pack was off the peak.

I dropped down an 8ft face, turned, raced the section, did a top turn, down and was in mid-bottom turn as I noticed a dry rock no more than two feet to the right of my board! :0(  I completed the turn raced another quick section and kicked out - wow that was close! Felt safer with the Gath on believe it or not.....

Almost as soon as I got back out I snagged another one, said goodbye to the Ninja on the way, on another nice overhead one. Now I new the routine, remember to stay high to avoid the rocks on the bottom turn. It walled up and it was just an 80 metre race, as I pumped through section after section, literally all the way in.

The wave finally closed out and I saw a guy 20ft or so in front in the water trying to get in. I decided to ride the now waist high plus white water end of the wave in. The guy turned, to see me heading in and just as he did, just beside him it all sucked dry - dry rock as far as the eye can see! I managed to pull out, and very unglamorously clamber out over the rocks ding-less = :0)

The Ninja wasn't far behind me and he too had some rock adventures to tend to later - his damaged karate chop hand. Back in the van, we ate, watched a dvd, checked out Hajime's video footage and passed out.

Sunday saw us rise at 9am, but it took me an hour to get myself together. Wolves looked perfect, but it is always difficult to judge from the checking spot. Suited and booted again, it was coming in 6-8ft plus with the odd bigger set. Just the two of us out, sun slowly coming over the hills, clean and going off!

We both got amazing waves, I caught at least 15 plus well overhead waves riding them for 80-100metres each time. After two hours, we were shattered, but the greedy Ninja insisted on staying out longer. He is backside on a lefts and was determined to try and kill two boards in two days, but my trusty 6'5" Fluid Juice survived! :0)

I got out on a wave all the way in to the beach, knackered I could hardly walk or move. Hajime arrived back soon after, having injured himself again by getting clobbered in the rocks - "so how's the board?" - all good he took the rocks to the body to cushion her = good! 

Lunch and then the drive home.....

An epic weekend, best for ages.

Hope you all scored wherever you went......


19.11.11 Where Fire Wire's fear to tread........