October found me down in Kernow, doing work and stuff, and for once the swell played ball too, and absolutely pumped !

I scored 10 straight perfect days :o)

As ever when the swell cranked, beach breaks become very much second best - who wants to spend forever duck diving, when you can paddle out in a nice channel at a reef / point break?

One of my first surfs was at 'the rock', which was double overhead, was a bit rusty. But I still managed to get a few well over head lefts and charged down the line for some long rides, with turns thrown in for added flavour, and it was a nice to ease back into things. The beach break getting out was a bit gnarly at about 8ft+ but once you threw yourself at it, you managed to force your way out.

That night George gave me a call, as the next couple of days were looking good. Tried my best to get him to drive down that night, but he was burnt with work, so the next morning he arrived in time for some breakie.

We headed for the bat cave, jumped in the silver bullet and hit the road. Checking out a few spots along the way, the rocks didn't look any good, tide was too Low, so we headed to the point which had 12 people on it, not a lot was coming through. So we rolled the dice and headed to another spot, always a gamble when you can't check it before you suit and boot, but you don't know if you don't go.....

So after a walk we started down the hill, and met a guy coming up, who claimed he had had it good - but from what we went into we both doubted it. Anyway, in we got, dry paddle out, and the sets were coming in. The first wave I went for was well over double overhead, and pitching too late to for me to make it. I just managed to pull-out as the whole lip went over.

I gathered myself, turned and started paddling to see George just getting over a triple overhead beast. I didn't get the lip on the head, but the whitewater alone was double head high, duck dived hoping for the best, and miraculously just popped through.

The next hour or so was spent paddling for beasts that were breaking right in front of a slab of rock the size of a house, with only 50ft or so between the lip and the rock.

Needless to say we didn't get much !

But as the tide pushed, the normal section started to work.....the first couple of waves I went for were fast and difficult to get into. But I threw myself at one (which George saw), and screamed down the line, through the barrel section and nailed the fast section with a couple of top turns added in for good measure.

Paddled back to the line-up as George roared into a well overhead beast, nailing it.

Nothing like sharing double overhead waves with a mate all to yourselves, we scored a bout 3-5 waves each before the rapidly rising spring high tide pushed the tide up too high. We were also stoked to get out without dinging our boards, and even after the 40 minute walk back to the car we were still amped.

The next day the swell had dropped a bit, and George had to head back to take his missus out to dinner, so we headed out early, lots of spots were checked, but in the end we decided to head down a 300ft cliff with a couple of lefts and rights for us to feast on. The wind was a bit more on it, so the current was a bit harder, and a lot of paddling was needed, but in the end we both got waves. I nabbed a well over head right and George charged a few waves, being front-side he was loving it.

At the end of our session we scaled the cliff, and George headed home......

Later that afternoon and the next day I scored 'the rock' again over head (smaller than the previous days), but by now I was fitter and more confident, so had more of a sweet session.

The next few days I saw swell everywhere got in here and there, the tides weren't great (being Low throughout the day), but nevertheless the swell cooked for a good few more days.

So the result of everything was cranking waves and a couple of well over double overhead rides = stoked ! :o)

10 Days in October