So in the last week I've had two conversations with people about less well known / special spots. For me every spot is special, as even if it's for one day a year, one hour or one week, they all crank / go off just like pipeline(!).

But I fail to see the need to gps tag / name it on social media - what is with that? Does it make the person feel cool? I know spot x therefore I'm the man? No they're just a real 'wilbur' ( http://www.wilbur-kookmeyer.com/ ), it takes zero effort to re-name a spot to call it something like 'rainbows', it adds mystique, helps preserve the anonymity of spots, and shows 'respect' to a place that is 'special' and has given you special waves......

Anyway this weekend trip is about all those special spots last weekend, some cranked, some did not, I'm sure you have your own special spots, treasure and love them.

I made a tentative call earlier in the week to the boys, it looked like a few treasures might work......despite the e-mail chatter one man stood tall amongst the rest, a Highlander called Fearghas.

The weekend neared, we met strapped guns to the roof and headed out, we arrived late, and got up late. It was a big and windy with more West in it than was supposed to be there = damn storm Desmond!

So the hunt started, we checked a couple of spots along the way three in fact till I pulled a magic one that I had on the back burner for a while. The walk was stunning, and at the end of that rainbow we found one guy out surfing a fun head high reef. And round the corner there were more spots, lots of empty rights. But the tide looked wrong and the wind was on it, plus why bum a guys session out. So I made the call and dragged the Highlander on to the next selection......

We checked another spot on the way, and then rocked-up at 'boulders', and it was pumping. Overhead barrels coming in over the shallow boulder point, so we suited and booted and got in amongst it. My first wave had a vertical wall on it, I pumped, breathed in and tucked under the lip, and got pitted. Unfortunately I didn't make it out, as my line was too high and the barrel ran away from me. But I paddled back out, stoked......

The crowd was doing it usual thing of being 'too cool, to call', so annoying and  English. Caught a few more, but then had to have words with the boyz, which went like this, 'if no one calls I'm taking off on everything and it won't be a drop-in'. Geeza beside me said - 'right on, we need someone in the line up like you', and low and behold the guys started calling and there was actually some semblance of order and everyone started getting some good waves.

So anyhow the Highlander and I headed back to the 'Bat Cave', pizza beer and a snooze, then up at sparrow fart and back on the road. More special place checking which wasn't quite on, but if you don't go you never know.

We went to a new spot, we had to wait for the 10ft sets to die down - the paddle out was hectic, 8ft+ beasts on the head and a drag of about 100 metres.

But we got out back eventually, paddled for a few, they were a bit difficult to get and then a 10ft+ set came, needless to say I was sitting a bit inside....Fearghas got over it I was paddling like a demon, determined not to get it on the head - a bit apprehensive as last time I surfed here I almost drowned 3 times in one session and got dragged 50metres underwater......anyway paddling like a demon......looks like it's going to break on me, duck dive = BANG, board and me are both taken down, all black, must be deep, but at least I'm still with the board. Then I get separated from her, and taken down, feel for the leash, minor panic, can't be that deep as the board isn't really tombestone-ing, next thing I pop-up = phew! Grab the board and just managed to get under the next one......

Once we had all recovered we waited for the next set, not quite 10ft+ but still 8ft+ Fearghas paddled for the first one, I'm thinking no way Highland boy's getting that one. But by Seonaidh ( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scottish_mythology ), he only got it, dropping down past me on his small board down into the pit of an 8ft+ beast. Before I had time to turn to watch his wave from behind there was another one bearing down on me, I turned, paddled and only got.....

Right through the pack, everyone scratching to get out of my way, well overhead, bottom turned, a weak off the top, and then two good cut backs into the overhead high wave as I went down the line, a good 100metre plus ride. Kicked-out before it closed out. Started paddling back and was joined by a super stoked Highlander, paddling back.....

Darn it was a long paddle back, took me a good 20 minutes, the current was strong, got another small one, only just over head, maybe 8ft, nice off the top, floated over a head high section and a nice cut-back or two - then back to paddling back out again.....

Although there were a few people in the line-up, the current and the hard paddle back meant that we were generally spread-out.

Caught-up with Fearghas outback again, after almost two hours I was beginning to get tired from all the paddling, and the winds seemed to be switching a bit too. So we decided to call it a day, just have to get a wave to get out on, and get in at the small beach - otherwise you're in the cliffs!

A big set came someone paddled, I could tell they were too deep and wouldn't make the section, so I paddled, it was a big one, My man made the drop surrounded by white water, as I started to get into it. he was 50 metres to my right so there was no invasion of space, not that it mattered as he got eaten, I made the drop, bottom turned and stormed down the line, through a couple of sections that stood-up well, and then the last one I almost didn't make it through. I could see people paddling hard to get out of the way, as the lip came down of the last well over head section. I turned and rode the white water all the way in, and got out with the others who had been scratching to get in.....phew!

As I walked-up with the other guys we talked about how we had managed to just get in, half-an-hour later the Coastguard was out, soon followed by a helicopter rescuing someone who missed the beach......ooops!

Fearghas also got a good wave out, we had a hearty roast and then went for a drive and a walk to digest. Ok, well to be honest I was sniffing out another spot, we drove down tree-lined roads and through the trees I spotted it. A 8ft right-hander, with just three guys paddling out - and it looked fun. But as it was getting dark and we were all surfed out, we decided to save this one for next time - another new special spot saved into the head, not tagged on gps or social media!

Lots of morals to this story, honour and savour the special spots, only paddle out if you can handle it, drowning is never that bad(!), and have fun, lots of fun....

Specials........