Woke to see the waves huage again, went down to the point, a couple of guys going in, but the 12-15ft plus waves weren't very enticing. Partly as I am only 3 days into my trip, and the last thing I want to do is over do it with my fragile back.

 But also because the whole bay was closing out and they guys caught inside were having to deal with 10-12ft white water, as well as getting washed in acrossthe rocks. Not to mention that it was really a bit out of control and there weren't many actually rideable waves coming in.

 So head round the corner to check a couple of other spots, 20mins later and having checked my 3rd option after a chat with a spaniard, I decided to head to the far end of the beach - down the dirt track.

 Hooked up with a local called Alberto and paddled out, the sets were very closey and it was a good 8-10ft, with a river of current. Finally got outbackand snagged an overhead one on my Fluid Juice shortboard (6'5"), the leftwas just fat and hard to get going.

 After a couple of other weak attempts I got a right, this time a nice-ish wave with a reo and a section which I made. The wave I got out on was another right, which re-formed on the inside after a fat starter section it walled on the inside and I just had time to turn and get ready as the bottom fell out and I felt myself drop a good few feet through the air. I made it, and carried on, on this section that was easily 8ft till the wave exploded and I body boarded the foam in.

 Had to excuse myself with the topless chick, as I had hidden my keys in the rocks where she was sun bathing! ;0)

 Lunch and then back to the point, to see if it was any better. Sat on the rocks for about 10 mins looking, only 4 surfers out, it looks huage and messy. Not keen maybe I'll head back to beach for some beach break waves. Then I see it...............a board washing in over the rocks, quickly rush down stashingmy keys etc. scrambling over rocks to try and get it to lessen the damage. Finally get it, look out to sea, and see a figure swiming in, show him I have the board and go and retrieve my bits scattered all over the rocks in my haste to get the board.

 Nice board, 8'6", weighs a tonne, finally the figure arrives to reclaim it.........none other than Al Mennie (http://www.almennie.com/). I know Al well from years back, he tells me Rob Small (http://shop.rhinosurf.com/team-rob-12-w.asp) is out back and that I should come out. I show him my bleeding foot, wounded getting his baby out of the rocks - he's not verysympathetic! :0( His chick arrives looking terrified at the fact her man has nearly drowned, Al's non-challant, puts his leash back on and paddles back out,taunting me to come.

 I rush back to the car, suit-up and get my trusty yellow Fluid Juice 6'8" - which is the biggest board I brought. The paddle outseems ok, or better put I timed it well. :0)

 I get out back, and see Rob, and start to paddle over, I owe him a bottle of wine or two (long story), I get half-way to him, and see he is looking behind me. I turn and see a surfer boardless, I paddle straight over - such is the surfing masonic code.

 Rob comes, over and he offers to take him in as his 9ft beast - is easier to paddle. I stay out, and paddle for a couple Al goes in to placate his chick and take her to supper, Rob comes back out and sneeks a 8-10 footer, before going in. Just me and a geeza from Bilboa - "Jon".

 A set comes, I paddle for the second one, Jon shouts me on, I get it, and drop down the face, not sure how big it was, certainly over 8ft. I get halfway down before I hit a piece of chop and get jettisoned.

 Jon and I are both nervous as we are the only two out back, and the day is ending. Neither wants to be the last one out, as the current is really strong -lots of water moving around; and who'll save you if your leash goes?!

 I snag another one and ride it in, helping a French chick to get out (she was surfing the re-form on the inside) as her boyfriend shouts helpful(!) instructions from the rocks.

 Out, have a chat with Jon who comes in soon after on a bomb. We were both severly undergunned compared to the other guys, but we had survived unscathed. And considering two leashes failed in half-an hour, we did well not to suffer anything.

 Home to my pad opposite the harbour to cook the red snapper I bought fresh from the fisherman the otherday, with chips and vegetables - getting better at cooking it now!

Getting ready for tomorrow, hopefully the swell will drop a tad to make it more manageable..........

-6ftSurfer

02.01.11 Domingo de Gigantes - Giant Sunday